It was all yellow

rao rak nai luang

Even people visiting Thailand on holiday will soon realise that the Thai people love their King very much. While in England enthusiasm for royalty is usually confined to tourists and the elderly, in Thailand it crosses all ages. Everywhere you go you see evidence of this affection, from framed portraits on the walls of restaurants and piles of photographs at the markets, to the King's jazz compositions that play at the subway stations.




One of the most visual ways that the Thais show their respect for the King is by wearing yellow shirts. In Thailand the day of the week that you were born on is very important and each day of the week has an associated colour. The King was born on a Monday, which is yellow day, so people show their respect to his majesty by wearing a yellow shirt on this day. Its not just the odd person who does this, well over half the population in Bangkok wear yellow every Monday. Children are allowed to wear yellow shirts to school and workers are encouraged to as well. It really is quite a sight on the subway in the morning.



There are other ways that the Thais show their respect. Before every film at the cinema a montage of pictures is shown and people stand while the national anthem is played. This is observed perfectly which even I find rather touching! Similarly at 9am and 6pm every day the national anthem is played in public places like train stations and shopping centres. Everyone stops what they are doing and stands in silence, somewhat confusing any uneducated farangs who are passing at the time.



When travelling around Bangkok, the King's image is never far from view. The entire surfaces of office and apartment blocks are decorated with pictures of the monarch. When I first arrived in Thailand the road leading from the station to my apartments was punctuated at regular intervals by placards displaying patriotic statements about the King. These looked very nice, but unfortunately stuck right out into the pavement. Dodging under these and between the lampposts and trees on the street was a hazardous business which left me with a number of mild blows to the head! Luckily after a month someone had the stroke of genius of changing the placards around so that they pointed away from the street, saving me from any further concussion.



I am told that the public's affection for the King stems from the good work he has done in the past. In his youth he travelled extensively around the country as documented in the photos and film clips that are shown at the cinemas before films. He has supported various charities and development projects in rural Thailand. However it appears that what has really cemented his reputation has been his interventions in the often turbulent politics of the country. During coups, public protests and political turmoil he has been the voice of moderation reminding leaders of the need for compromise and reconciliation.




December 5th was the King's 79th birthday and saw widespread celebrations and universal wearing of yellow shirts. In Thailand the King's birthday is also Father's Day, while Mother's Day is celebrated on the Queen's birthday, so even more cause for celebration. My school marked the occasion with a grand assembly, with speeches and offerings to the King interlacing the usual variety performances of singing, dancing and percussion.